Congo
Travel Journal
During March and April, 2004 Andy Yardy travelled to the
Central African Republic and then on to the Congo for
six weeks of video production. New Link Media partnered
with Mwanga Productions in association with the Evangelical
Free Church in North America in the production of a feature
length drama which tells the true story of Isaac Pelendo
an inspirational Congolese man at the turn of the 20th
century.
During
the trip Andy recorded his thoughts in the following blog.
To read from the beginning of the trip scroll to the bottom
of the page and follow the dates up.
Friday,
April 16
Well,
I am in Bangui. Out
of the Congo but I have to say it wasn't that easy. The
road trip was fine. Nothing to complain about there. It
was uneventful as I had hoped. We pulled into the place
where we were to stay that night right on time about 5pm
had a very good nights sleep sent our passports over to
the airport for processing at 9 that morning then a little
after 10am we left for the Airport. Now the runway there
in Gemana is paved and there is a "terminal"
a building that is all shot up from the war and all the
windows broken. We went to have our bags inspected and
stood there.
Eventually the pilot called a cell phone to say that they
would be late about 11:30 so we just stood here and waited.
There were a bunch of soldiers around chatting and laughing.
A 2 start general was sitting on a ledge without his shoes
on chatting with the guy in the yellow suit who was there
to guide the planes in - but there were no planes so chatting
time. There were people walking up and down the runway
caring things to villages on either side - Fire wood water
etc. Then about 11:30 a plane appeared in the distance
and flew past the runway then landed once it was all clear.
The 6 seat beachcraft came back down the runway. The guy
with the yellow suit jumped into action with his white
and red paddles and guided the plane into the right space
on the empty tarmac. We grabbed our bags and walked down
the stairs and no to the tarmac to get on the plane. Darrel
the pilot kindly greeted us all - then informed us that
the plane had an electrical problem and he would have
to check it out. So as we stood under the wing he proceeded
to take off the top of the fuselage over the engine to
inspect the problem. He figured out it was the alternator.
After thinking for a while and a cell phone call back
to base he figured he could get us to Bangui if they he
could jump start the plane. Evidently all he needs electricity
for is navigation, radio, fuel pump and flaps. Well I
have to say that all sounds pretty important to me. He
said that he doesn't have to use flaps on paved runways
for take off and landing only on bush strips. Since we
were going to a large airport he decided to call in his
arrival and fly the old fashion way without GPS. So went
off to garage at the mission to find jumper cables and
didn't find anything except a piece of house electrical
wire and they striped off the ends and drove a pickup
to the airplane and charged the battery for about 40min
the drove the truck away we got on the plane and Darrel
turn the started and with a little hesitation the engine
started and we took off to Bangui.
I
have to say Africa look a lot different from the sky.
We were flying at about 2000 feet and had a wonderful
view of Congo and then of the Ubangi river then up the
river a ways and to Central African Republic where I knew
cold coke could be obtained.
The pilot stayed with ups that night while another plane
flew up from their base to replace the alternator. I didn't
see him in the morning but I assume all is well with the
jumpstarted airplane so I figured I would spend some time
out in the big city. I took a walk this morning and got
a coke and bought a few little things. I came back to
the guest house then went out again with Greg who is a
College student from Canada that just finished up a 6
month internship in Congo. We walked back downtown for
lunch. On the way back a guy started begging from us.
He just didn't want to give up for any reason - I was
pretty sure he wasn't right in the head.
Anyway after a few block of persistent following and lots
of Africans showing him off and he kept coming back he
made a grab for Greg's hat. He got it and Greg ran after
him and grabbed for it. The guy stood there taunting him
until an African guy made a grip at it and he ran off.
A truck full of guys saw what had happened and jumped
the guy and gave Greg his hat back. The then told us to
move on. Over my shoulder I saw the proceed to beat the
guy up knocking out at least one tooth. Then they got
in the truck and left. The guy ran toward us crying and
bleeding. The stood pointing at us calling the police.
I figured it was more than time to be at the guest house.
When we had about 2 blocks to go one of the police officers
listened to the guy and stopped us. I couldn't understand
anything but I knew this wasn't good. Then one of the
guys who had seen what had happened ran up and told the
police what the story really was and he told up to leave
as we walked away the police took off his belt and started
to beat the guy. Back at the guest house they said it
had been a long time since something like that had happened
but it wasn't uncommon. Well, I say it is time to go home
2 more nights though - but the food here is great and
there is the promise of some good beef at a special restaurant
tomorrow evening so I will enjoy my last days and will
be home Sunday if nothing else tries to keep me here.
:-)
Tuesday,
April 13
Well,
my time here is drawing to a close. I actually have two
more nights here. Tomorrow afternoon I have another Congo
road trip to look forward to. I hope that it won't be
quite as eventful as my last. It has been raining a lot
over the last few days so it was decided that the plane
we are flying out on would not land here since they only
have a grass runway. We have to drive 3 hours to a city
that has a paved runway. It is also the same city we would
have to land in anyway before leaving the country if the
plane did come here. They require us to go through customs
at some point. Well despite a variety of things that slowed
this project down we finished up the today with the last
shot. After the road trip it will be a 6 seater airplane
trip to Bangue. Then all day Friday and Saturday there
drinking coke and enjoying hot showers and electricity
before the weekly flight to Paris takes me on the final
leg of my journey back to LA on Sunday. I guess I will
get out but there have been moments like the other night
when a scorpion came running across the floor. It was
killed in good time but I didn't like the thought of something
like that running around as I tried to go to sleep on
my mattress on the floor. Keep me in prayer over the next
few days and do check back I will try to give you the
run down on my return and maybe some more DEEP thoughts
about life in Africa.
Sunday,
April 11
It
is a lazy Sunday Afternoon here in the Congo. I just got
up from a Sunday Afternoon nap. Today, is Easter Sunday.
As in most churches around the world this is the Sunday
pull out all the stops. This is a BIG Sunday for the churches
around here. The churches in the area combine efforts
to put on Easter Services. Tandala is the location of
one of them. It was decided that that church building
was too small for the number of people they were expecting.
Makila one of the people that has been helping us has
lots of shade trees in his yard. So they moved all the
benches out of the church and gathered chairs and logs
from all over the village to set up for Church. There
service was to start at 9am so we went down to find our
seats nice and early at 9:30. Now pulling out all the
stops included bring out a "PA" system. When
we got there they were still setting it up. It was a collection
of boom boxes and a car amp hooked up to two car batteries
that were hooked to two solar panels. Now it was time
to hook up the band. There were 2 guitars, a bass and
three mics that were hooked into a rather effective mixer
- a bare wire that came out of the amp that they could
twist their bare wires coming out of the mics and guitars
too. Crank up the volume to max and you have a very effective
sound system. Well at least it makes sound.
Despite
the sound the service was one of the most enthusiastic
I have ever been to here in Africa. There were choirs
from each of the churches some better than others but
all of the songs had a story to tell about the resurrection
of Christ. Several congregational numbers then offering.
Well, I thought I had gotten this routine down. Each row
is let out and you dance down the isle to the offering
basket to drop you gift in men then women on the other
side. Well this was out side under trees no clear rows
or isles to walk down. Then the said this line then that
line. I was utterly confused - got to the front looked
for the basket didn't see it then I noticed people in
our row sitting down again so I went back and sat down.
So I hope I have been forgiven for not giving anything
this Sunday. Finally, 3 1/2 hours later the message started.
The speaker was a retired missionary Merle Wester (who
I will be flying back with this week) He knew what it
meant to give just enough message and stop. So a little
over 4 hours later we were dismissed to go to various
homes that had been asked to prepare food for everyone.
Another Congo lunch and ah a nap.
I start my journey back to the USA in 3 days. I have mixed
feelings about leaving. Mostly I am excited. I am looking
forward to seeing friends again getting back to work and
to Church. Still have made a lot of good friends here
that will be hard to leave. I am sure there will be more
adventures in the next three days as well as the 3 day
journey back.
Friday,
April 9
I
was sitting down for peanuts and coffee (yes I drank coffee)
at the house of one of the nurses here at the Hospital
in Tandala. This man is a really good friend of Brian
since they had hung out together years ago when Brian
was working as a mechanic here. Now this peanuts and coffee
thing is a very important time since that when you sit
around a chew the fat trying to solve the problems of
the world. The question came up will this little village
of Tandala amount to anything? Does it have a chance of
surviving at all? Why did the missionaries leave? A few
days earlier over lunch we began a discussion with Nupanga
a very educated African who has travel well within Africa
but not any further. This one was on Development. Why
is Congo so undeveloped. He believe it is because of a
wrong perspective on what development is. We say it is
cars and roads, electricity and Televisions, Phones and
e-mail. That is wrong he declares it is none of those
things - then what is it? There is no real answer - though
to be fair we didn't have much more time. If it is those
things why then do people come up to me and ask to buy
the SAT phone - why was the solar panel stolen and not
food? This seems to be what people want. I have been offered
women to marry with no dowry just so long as I take them
to the USA. Out here they are begging for these things
and it is really not even a case of them tasting it and
wanting more. Out here all there is a solar power in the
homes of a few. You can't by things like coke. They don't
know what McDonalds is. The probably haven't seen more
than a 6 seater plane (except for the sound of a jet over
head I hear at about 10 in the morning and evening each
day) There are only pickups and land rovers that drive
through and that is only a few times a day. But they know
what they want - DEVELOPMENT. A few days before that I
had been talking with the owner of our truck about what
to do when people ask for things. What do you do as a
white person - someone with resources - even with my limited
ones to these people they are unfathomable. When the average
Congolese makes less $250 a year I could pay role a small
village with my annual income. He openly shared that he
shared the same problem. The people consider him a white
man (someone with resources) He just gives as much as
he can to those he feels are in genuine need or are really
proving to be someone who is working toward making a difference.
But this is never enough he just has to trust God to take
it for what it is. It is hard when people come up and
say: You will give me your knife. You will give me your
shoes. You will give me your camera. This language has
no word for please or thank you. This doesn't float well
with white people so they have adapted the French words
for them. Just last night I was told a story that shows
how they think about these things. Why the White people
never have cans? When you go to a white person to get
a can they never have them because they are all gone because
they demand you give away thank you's. You have only so
many thank you's to receive and then there will be no
more cans - that is why they have no cans - STRANGE STORY
but that is how they think. So what is the next step.
Education.
When you and I are in school we learn much more than reading,
writing and arithmetic. We learn things about why a car
works. How an airplane flies. What makes a phone call
possible. It has been know here that someone got a car
here and got ride of it after first breakdown because
the didn't know how to figure out it needed to be fixed.
What do you do with electricity when you don't know what
it takes to get it. We have seen old power lines in towns
here where there was colonial presence. They had to be
guarded all the time so the lines wouldn't get stolen.
Now they are gone the power plants have stopped and lines
have been stolen. They want electricity they should understand
what it takes to get it. I could go on with other examples
but I think you get the point. There is more than just
basic elementary education that is needed but education
about the use of development the WHY's of development
but after that it still remains is that knowledge going
to develop the wisdom needed sustain development.
So
what is it we in the west need to do about it? We are
the people with the resources. We are the ones that have
the resources we are the ones that come in and colonialized
Africa and we are the ones who took them and sold them
as slaves. We are the ones who came as missionaries to
spread the good news. We are the ones that donate to NGO's
which bring in medicine. We are the ones with the education
then need to pursue what they want. One of the complaints
that have heard is the missionaries left after the church
was established. The hospitals may still be staffed minimally.
We work in the bible colleges but for the most part we
have left the work of evangelism to the Africans. Well
they feel abandoned they don't really know how to support
the church. Pastors are called and go but they really
never get much beyond the subsistence living of their
people. We in the west have read the bible and saw the
scripture GO INTO ALL THE WORLD - AND PREACH - MAKE DISCIPLES.
Placing those verses among the most important of words
of Jesus. Still if you look at the gospels there is a
lot more said about caring for the poor the sick the needy.
Jesus actions showed that he spent much more time helping
the poor, healing the sick, teaching the masses then he
did preaching salvation. In fact our favorite verse in
the west for what it means to be saved is John 3:16 because
it is the explanation given to an educated man. To a lame
person it may mean much more to say Get up and walk -
your sins are forgiven. A starving crowd could believe
from the words give by a man who just fed them from five
loaves and two fishes. What are we doing with the great
commission may not be wrong but is may not be right either.
Jesus took care of all the people needs. If you look at
Maslows Hierarchy of needs we as Christians have been
very good at bringing the gospel to the ends of the world
then developing ways of helping people mature and grow
in the their faith. We have also done a pretty good job
at helping people with some basic needs. We have feeding
programs, hospitals, health education, agricultural education,
elementary education. Beyond that our efforts in mission
stop because we want quick results that bring people to
Christ. After that we have made disciples and the great
commission is done. We need to understand that there are
still needs that people have that are still left undone.
What about how to run a business. Why accounting is important.
What are physics of the world we live in. How to study
the humanity and culture. What and why is communications
important in our world.
I
could go on and on but the point is we have stopped with
spiritual disciples. Many of the guiding thoughts that
began our country were Christian. Slavery was abolished
in England because of the influence of the Wesleyan revival.
The point I want to make is why did we stop with evangelism
in our efforts in missions? Why didn't we go to the next
level? We shouldn't leave development to the secular world
alone. What is stopping us now from moving forward and
using what we know and in through a Christian world view
help the developing world learn. What can we do to help
them hone there natural intellectual and creative sides
in to something they can pass on their cultures and ideas
of God to future generations and to us helping us all
to have a greater understanding of God through his creation
of us and reach out to more with His gift of salvation.
Well
that is that deep thought. There are other factors that
I am aware of that complicate things but I just wanted
to make this point. One of them here in Congo is they
are recovering from a civil war and that in and of it
self will take a while. It is another rain day - the hardest
rain yet.
Wednesday,
April 07
Well,
another day is past - finally a full work day since only
shooting half days for the last 3 days. I am feeling about
up to par after being sick from Sunday night through Monday
and groggy most of Tuesday. Despite all of that I have
been able to have some rousing conversations with some
of the people here as well as sharing peanuts at someone’s
house last night - the peanut thing is a big thing when
it is time to sit around and chew the fat. Anyway, I had
some thoughts last night that I wanted to sit down and
write this evening but the long day has just got me ready
for bed and not for writing. So just check back in a day
or two for some interesting insights. Good night God Bless.
Monday, April 5
Today
was a very long day. Last night I started feeling sick
so I went to bed early to try to sleep it off. It really
didn't work. I spent most of today just resting and trying
to gain strength back but it really didn't help. I finally
did get out of bed and go eat dinner and now I am trying
to write an e-mail. Despite all of that I did shoot 3
scenes in the morning. The video shoot is really winding
down. I have 9 more days here then 3 in Bangue. But there
is only about 6 days of production left. Anyway, I wanted
to give you guys an update more details to come...
Saturday,
April 3
So
its two in the morning our axle is broken and we are stuck
in the middle of a swamp area at least 1 mile from the
closest village. To tired to figure out what to do next
we pulled a sheet out of Brian's bag and lay down on the
top of the loaded truck to sleep. With a tire for my pillow,
a piece of plywood at my feet and some other set of stuff
at my back I got what might be considered 3 hours of sleep.
Between the fly's, mosquitoes, and other assortment of
pugs trying to eat me under the sheet I woke up about
5 with people walking by wonder what two white guys were
doing on top of a truck in the middle of a swamp. I got
down and Makila and the driver where already up. Makila
knew that the village about a mile and a half away had
a radio that might be able to contact the Tandala and
get somebody to come out with another truck to pick us
up. Makila was feeling much better so he left to go send
the message. Meanwhile Brian wrote some notes to give
to any trucks going in the direction we were going. This
was all well and good but since the day before we had
only passed 4 moving motorized contraptions - I had my
doubts.
Unless we wanted to drink the swamp water we had no water.
We did have a bag of trail mix which we started to munch
on. We all sat down on the side of the road to take a
nap while there was still some shade. About 9am the shade
was almost gone so we pulled out some PVC pipe from truck
and a tarp to make a little shelter. While digging through
the truck we discovered 2 fantas. Tada - something to
drink. About 10 a guy on a bike came by with a message
that they were able to contact Tandala and the church
people were cooking food to bring to us. About a half
an hour later a jug of water showed up as well as a picnic
basket with some fish, peanuts, fuku and some tea and
coffee was carried out by the pastor. About the time we
finished Makila was back and soon after that a the was
a trail of dust in the distance that turned out to be
the truck coming to pick us up. After transferring the
load we climbed on the back of the truck and off again
to Tandala. Finally, after only one disconcerting stop
to do something to the back end of the new pick up we
arrived safely at Tandala at about 1pm. They had saved
lunch for us and there was COLD water and ICE CREAM for
dessert. Never in my life as those things tasted so VERY
VERY good.
All told it was a pretty interesting day in the life of
Andy Yardy. One I won't soon forget. Life is a little
different out here were the is no AAA no cell phones to
call 911 not too many cars. In this wild west there still
is a Tonto that can fix almost any car problem with less
tools than MacGyver. Well, that is my story. Just last
night we found out that the drive actually fixed the truck.
They had located a rear end in another village and bought
it then jacked the truck in a put it on right there in
the middle of swamp and drove out of there. The trucks
owner is going to come by later today to settle the rental
charge with us $1.50 a km (about $2 a mile) is what is
supposed to cost but since we got stuck we will of course
want to pay less and since he had to put a bunch of money
into fixing the truck will want us to pay more. I will
stay out of that one since I have only passed African
negation 101 and I don't think they cover something like
this until 401. Another note - During all of these events
I didn't understand any of it. Observation only went so
far and Brian couldn't translate everything. So I could
have been very frustrated but anyway it was part of experiencing
Africa so I just enjoyed it as best I could.
That's
all for now. More later
Andy
Friday,
April 2
Well as I mentioned last time it was time to move to another
location. A trip that is really only 80 miles but normally
takes 8 to 10 hours. However with my luck it only took
28 hours. Here is how it went down.
Yesterday morning began with loading the trucks. We had
13 people and luggage witch included a generator and a
barrel of fuel. We left about 8:45 after several hours
of negotiating with the drivers how much we could put
on the trucks we left with 9 people in the land rover
and 4 of us in the pickup. The pickup ran great except
for the minor problem of having to up start it. Brian
and I were sitting on the top of the luggage in the back.
It was a precarious balancing act but a great view with
a breeze the whole time. Despite the bumpy roads I have
to say that is the way to see Africa. We passed through
the villages waving like the grand marshals in a parade.
I have to say I think this could be the new fad diet.
Remember the infomercials for the vibrator that you strap
on your gut that gives you a work out while watching TV.
Here is a method of seeing Africa and getting a complete
work out upper body lower body and cardiovascular. It
is really cheap to only $100 after the low cost of $2500
for the plane ticket. I think it could be really successful.
The first sign of trouble came at about 2 in the afternoon.
We got a flat tire. Hey, that's no big deal what do you
expect? We pulled up under a mango tree to check it out
then the driver pulled forward out of the shade so he
was on a hill for the push start. So Manila who was sitting
in the front ran to the shade of the tree looking like
he was going to die from car sickness. Brian and I stayed
out in the sun and helped the driver put on the tire.
We put on the spare but the air was low so he didn't like
that for a back tire under the load. So since there was
no pump available we took it off put on the old tire jacked
up the front of the car took a good front tire off put
the spare in front then back to jacking up the back and
changing that tire. 1 hour later it was time to move on.
The scenery change over the next stretch was really amazing.
We went from rolling hills to grass lands. The huts changed
from square to round. The villages got bigger. There was
one stretch that out in the distance if I didn't know
better looked like a golf course. It was lush green grass
with rolling hills that are actually old ant hills that
have been abandoned with pall trees springing up in pictures
clumps. Anyway on with the story.
We
were supposed to catch up with the land rover for dinner
in a place called Bau which is actually the place where
Brian grew up. Well because of our delay they had moved
on in hopes of arriving before dark. After going through
"protocol" in Bau then getting a tour of where
Brian grew up we went back to the truck to start back
on the trip. By this time it was dark so we thought we
had better get going. Then the driver decided he wanted
to get the tire fixed so we had a spare. Of course there
was no patch kit and remember we didn't have a pump. So
the sent word out into the village to see if there was
a pump anywhere around. Finally somebody came back with
word that they knew a guy who knew a guy that had a pump
two villages away. So somebody went off on a bike to get
it. In the mean time the driver was taking the tube out
of the flat tire with a screw driver, a wrench, a pounding
stick for mantic root and me standing on the other side
of the tire. I am still wondering how he is going to patch
this thing up. Finally I am told that the are going to
bleed sap from a tree that can be made into a glue that
will fix the tire. Soon after we got the tube out the
pump arrived. A old bicycle pump that had seen many better
days. Finally, with the tire fixed and a hour of pumping
we are ready to get back on the "road"
Now here comes to good part. The story is that there is
a check point about 2 hours drive ahead that the driver
didn't want to go through in the day since his truck doesn't
have registration or insurance. So now it is dark and
at that point we figured we would go through about 10
or 11. About 10pm a new clanking noise from the rear of
the truck. We called out to the driver and he put his
head out the window to hear what was going on. Now we
were slowing down and stopping. The driver grump's around
for a while then declares he thinks it something with
the drive shaft or the differential. So he pulls out a
plastic bag with about 7 wrenches in it. He climbs under
the truck and with a flash light proceeds to take off
the drive shaft. In one case he didn't even have the right
wrench so with a tight rode he jammed the flat edge of
the screw drive between it and the shaft and proceeded
to take it off. After banging around with the differential
he put it back together and we were off again. No sound,
so he starts speeding ahead then there was the sound again
much more distinct this time. Brian was sure it was the
bearings in the rear passenger wheel. So time to stop
again and this time pull the tire off then the break which
by the way was disengaged on that wheel. Then pulled out
the axle and looked at it banged around again. This time
the driver wasn't so sure it could be fixed. After a conversation
with Brian he decided he would try to keep his promise
to get us there that night and he put it back together
again but suddenly he was a got discourage and walked
away. So Brian put the tire back on and we started off
again with not much notice was still there and kept getting
worse so we stopped again. This time he decided that it
he would take off the drive shaft to the rear. 20 min
later we were off again now very close to the barricade.
So with much clanging we approached to see it was still
manned even at 2 in the morning. The guard raised his
hand and blew his whistle. One of the guys came out to
the truck. After some chatting Manila told us to get off
the back and talk with the guard. Then with out to much
ado except some grumping from the guard we paid about
$5 in a mix of Congo Franks and Central African Franks
we were on our way again on our last leg of the trip.
After all the we only had an hour of driving left and
a bed and the promise of cold water for the fist time
in more than 2 weeks. Ahhh, the fun trip which had turned
into a African adventure was about over.
Then bang and screeching breaks and we were stopped again
not even two miles from the barricade. We got down and
the tire was leaning 45 degrees off axis and there was
smoke coming out of the axle.
Ok
that is part one. I got a little carried away telling
this story so part two will come tomorrow.
Andy
March
30, 2004
Today
is the last day we are in the village of Kala. Tomorrow
we move on to the village of Tandala. This also marks
the halfway point in my trip to the Congo. Today started
off with planning for the last three scenes that we have
to shoot here. But as usual there was a delay. We were
going to go out and shoot a scene from boats on the river.
We had sent somebody down to the river to get the boats
ready. After a while they came back up saying that the
regional military commander had just come in to town to
talk to us about our filming. Evidently several days ago
while shooting by the river I had doe a sequence where
all the shots were at low angles some of them with the
camera resting on the ground. Anyway in the crowd the
story got started that what we were really doing was sucking
diamonds out of the ground. The word had gotten to him
and he came down to investigate. I nearly busted up laughing
when I heard the story but since the commander was on
his way up to talk with us I had to keep it inside - Man
that was hard VERY HARD. All I can say is I wouldn't be
sitting here in the heat trying to type a note while sweating
my head off if I was sucking diamonds out of the ground.
Anyway we got the shooting done and I packed my things
up for the 8 to 10 hour ride tomorrow that is all of about
80 miles. I will be siting on the back of a pickup truck
bouncing along hopefully not breaking any bones in the
process. As a note of prayer. Both our Director Richard
and Nupanga the "star" were show very early
symptoms of the flu tonight which out here also could
be Malaria. An interesting thing I heard about Malaria
today - the reason early missionaries and colonial occupiers
always wore helmets or hats when they went outside was
because they believed that Malaria came in though your
head when it was exposed to the sun. Interesting thing
I had never heard before - Malaria comes into the heads
of the people who suck diamonds out of the ground with
Cameras. That's all for now I will write again from Tandala.
March
28, 2004
Well
its another Sunday. We went to church I brought the camera
and mic. down since I just didn't want to pass up the
chance to record some of the music. I didn't really try
to get pictures until it was time for offering. Kids dancing
in the windows and people marching up the isles was just
to good to pass up. We are wrapping up our time in this
location Kala. On Wednesday we move to a new location
called Tandala I believe. I hear they have a refrigerator
there and I have been promised ice cream. That will be
the most welcome sight when that happens. The script is
now half way finished. I am surprised since things didn't
really get off to a good start. Today we had all the people
from the church go down to the river and shoot the baptism
scene. I took the camera out into the river to get a different
angle. I got out to my waist and if I didn't have to shoot
I think I would have just jumped all the way in. I resisted
the temptation and went back up the hill and took a nap.
I have been joking with Nupanga who is the main character
in this film. He keeps telling me how much better things
were before the white man came. Before the white man came
no trucks ever got stuck in the road. There was no break
in's but of course there were no doors. They did bring
the gospel though he tells me and that was a good thing
- the only good thing. But the problem there is that before
we brought them the gospel we had to mix it in with our
culture and our trade and so on and so on. Afterwards
I thought of Star Trek's prime directive to not disturb
cultures they find until they are ready. I wonder here
what advantage there was to building these big mission
stations that bring things into the middle of nowhere
that we consider necessities. They build air strips and
kilns to make bricks put up roads and started paying people
which really didn't know what a cash economy is all about.
Through independence and a series of civil wars this place
has never been able to absorb the things that were brought
in. Kinshasa is the largest city in the world without
electricity - 5 million people that only have electricity
if they make it. So what do you say when people ask you
for something when they live in another century and you
walk up the hill to the house that has a generator and
we have and SUV and Pickup to get around. Anyway now I
really don't know where I am going with this anymore.
I am raising questions that have no easy answers. I guess
I could look back and suggest how they should have come
into Congo and done the work here but that would be useless
since it is water under the bridge. But were do things
go from here I really don't know. Is it really effective
to make a film in a language and for a culture that won't
have TV's for years to come. I could go on but it just
something to think about that will go on and on and on.
March
25, 2004
Today was a lazy day. I didn't
really get a chance to sleep in, but the rest of the day
was mostly reading and playing solitaire on my palm pilot.
I have to say I would have rather been at home today.
Sitting there with nothing to do, being pretty rested
and not doing anything just drove me crazy.
The situation of the two
actors that had the accident yesterday has gotten better.
They both woke up and with clear minds. The wife of the
one guy was able to get to the hospital to be with her
husband. We go back to the village to continue production
tomorrow. It will be good to start making progress again
but man it will be hot.
This
is really a country that has many needs. It is the most
under developed place that I have ever been to. There
is plenty of food but you really have to go out and get
it for yourself. Those of us who want to buy food have
a hard time since there is no dependable system of markets
and stores to get food. Basically we put out word in the
village for what we would like to eat the next day and
we may or may not get it. There was one day that we had
to feed 20 people with 4 cans of tuna and rice. Sometimes
the lunch food hasn't shown up until 11 or 12 then it
takes until 2 or 3 to get it cooked. Basically the shooting
is the hardest I have done when I am hungry and thirsty
all the time. The evenings are a little better food wise
we have a bunch of American snacks. We had a few Pringles
tonight and some mac and cheese the other day. We have
several cans of Country Time lemonade. Now lemonade is
something I have could take or leave, but out here I love
the stuff. It just makes the water taste colder.
That was some of the frustrating things I have been dealing
with, but on the other hand it really is exciting out
here. It is classic Africa that you read about in books.
The villages are all mud huts and the people live off
the land. I have loved trying to learn some of the basic
words in the language. I have fun with the kids when I
get a few moments out from behind the camera. The evening
we burned the two huts down we had an Africa dance set
up in front of the huts and the people started dancing
around the drums. Actually I was kind of disappointed
with the look of the dance since none of the people we
had with us would join in since it is wrong for Christians
to do such things. That meant we had the village drunks
and some teenagers along with a lot of children around
the drums. We then lit the huts and put the drums in the
fire as the script said but the kids kept taking them
out. Why would you burn perfectly good drums? Anyway we
got through that and on the way home we drove through
several villages that were having dances that looked exactly
like what we had staged in the village. So I guess we
ended up with quite a good scene.
Well, that is all for now.
Time for bed things start
again at 5 tomorrow.
Andy
March
23, 2004
It
is pouring rain outside so I won't be able to send this
message right away. We were eating dinner when the rain
started. There was a cool breeze blowing through the house
and it just felt so good after days of non-stop sweating.
The
last two days represented a huge chunk of shooting that
should get us back on a schedule so we can complete the
project. Yesterday started hesitantly. Richard who is
directing the film wasn't sure we should shoot a scene
that involved burning down two houses in the village we
have been shooting at.
We
just heard some bad news. Several of the pastors that
are in this area just came by. Two of the actors who finished
their parts yesterday were riding on a motorcycle back
home and hit a bike ridden by a Catholic priest. The two
men are now in a comma and the priest past away after
they arrived at the hospital. One of the men's wife is
our lead female actress and she is leaving at first light
tomorrow to go be with her husband.
We
have called off shooting for tomorrow to pray for them
and evaluate what we can do. Please pray for wisdom and
strength for this situation. We will probably be able
to continue, but it will be a day or two and we will have
to re shoot about 3 pages if we have to recast the wife.
However, we have to evaluate what is culturally appropriate
at this point. That response can change depending on whether
the men recover or not. I could go on but at this point
I should just say pray.
I
will write more later and give you the other updates.
Thanks,
Andy
March
21, 2004
It
is Sunday evening in the Congo. This morning was church
and in Africa that means the whole village gets dressed
up and goes down to the church when they hear the beating
of the drums. We heard the drums waited a half hour and
then walked down to the church building that was already
full of people singing their hearts out. Choir after choir
came forward and gave their special music. Each song told
a story. It was like a musical Sunday School. One song
told the story of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Pelendo -
the African evangelist whose story we are here to tell.
After the music was the introduction of visitors and that
meant I had to stand up and be introduced followed by
quite the welcoming song that lasted 5 or 6 min. Then
the message, more music and the offering which lasted
about 20 min while everyone stood to sing and dance as
the ushers let out each aisle to dance down to the front
in a long conga line to the offering plate. I think I
will suggest we start this in our church. I am sure that
it will raise the offering about 2 or 3 times or nobody
would come - I think it is worth the risk.
African
church services are always encouraging. The day before
was not so much fun. In the morning we had a work slowdown.
Who knew that SAG rules applied all the way out here?
Anyway, the actors were not happy with the amount of money
they were being paid and decided to show up an hour late
to work. Then the rest of the morning was spent discussing
what could be done to fix the situation. There is a lot
more to it than that, but to say the least we lost another
day of shooting on an already behind schedule shoot. After
a little more than one week in Africa we have only shot
1 on day of the 5 days we had scheduled to shoot. We have
spent today trying to reschedule everything and we can
do the job in the amount of time we have. But that would
be assuming we have only 6 more days of unscheduled delays
- like rain or work slow downs etc. - Please pray for
that.
The
work slowdown did give me the chance to do something that
I hadn't planned on. Yesterday afternoon Brain and I took
a hike down to the river to hire a boat to take us to
a sand bar in the middle of the river. After a lengthy
conversation with the Military commander and the immigration
officer both of which were only about 16 or 17 years old
we were able to get a boat across the river. We took off
our shoes and walked through the sand for about a mile
or so before going back to boat and back to the Congo.
So even if it was for a few moments I was able to go into
the Peoples Republic of Congo from the Democratic Republic
of Congo.
Well,
time is winding down and I should let some other of our
team type some e-mail before going to bed. But just so
you know here is what it takes to send and receive e-mail.
First type and que the messages. Then hook the laptop
which doesn't have a battery to an inverter or an extension
cord if the generator is running, take it out into the
yard where you can get a clear view of the sky, hook up
the sat phone, send and receive messages, then take everything
back inside. All this takes about 10 min - such commitment
to stay in touch with the modern world. I MISS MY DSL
- but this is an adventure I would trade for it.
Andy
PS
- Maybe after 2 or 3 weeks I will change my mind.
March
19, 2004
Finally, a real day of shooting. Our star Nupanga
got here late last night. We got three scenes done today.
I am sweating non stop - this should be good on my figure
:-) Though I finally gave up with trying to drink bottled
or boiled water. I just couldn't keep up.
There
is no economy left here to speak of because of the devastation
of the civil war. There are no stores for miles. As an
example of how bad it is here, the MAF plane that we flew
into Congo on landed on a grass air strip that used to
be one of the ports of entry for flights from Europe.
There is a large hanger still left on the field and the
town is mostly a ghost town of large buildings and warehouses
that have long been abandoned. The "Road" we
travel on used to be a route for the industry was up and
down the river. Now is just an overgrown path.
One
of our production team members, Brian, is a former MK
that grew up here remembers when this place was hopping.
The war over the last decade has even further devastated
the country. The villages don't have many young men in
them. However, there are lots of children. I have been
riding standing up in the back of a pickup going at about
6 or 7 miles an hour. Riding through village after village
we have a line of kids waving at us yelling “Mate
O” and I have to wave back - I guess I know what
if feels like to the grand martial of the Rose Parade!
Well that is part of the life here is just working while
the sun is out, then run the generator for a while, eating
dinner, charging batteries and typing e-mail. Then it
is outside to the yard where the sat phone can uplink
well enough to send it off. Turn off the generator and
go to sleep which is about 9pm. A slight change of pace
from Southern California. Now that a week is up and it
seems that life is settling in. I should be able to be
a little more regular with communication for the next
month I am here.
March
18, 2004
Well, we just finished our first day of shooting. Well
sorta. Our star is not yet here. He is coming from the
Central Africa Republic by motorcycle so the first day
of shooting was basically scouting out some locations
while the cast and crew sat around. We got a lot of cut
away shots.
This
is probably the most remote location a movie has ever
been shot in. Well at least since Everest. After the two
day flight to the Central Africa Republic capital Bangui,
which is actually an overgrown village on the border of
Congo, we took a charter flight from MAF to a grass air
strip about 40 min flight south into Congo. After a 4
hour run around of protocol with the customs officials
who stay there for such a time as this (about 2 times
a year) we got on the road for a 2 hour truck ride to
the place we were staying. The road if you can call it
that was the worse I had ever been on - Where are the
H2's when you need them. OH wait I know that one - sitting
in compact parking spaces in LA.